Adventures Up North

Our first outing for our work with MLF was a trip to Rumphi, in the northern region of Malawi. We stopped overnight in Mzuzu, the major city in the north, to change vehicles for we needed a 4X4 as the roads are bad in that area. We agreed to meet Jack, the driver of the 4X4, in the car park of a local supermarket. At the appointed time a 4X4 drew up and the driver waved to us. He confirmed his name was Jack and we said we would have to go to our guesthouse house so we could exchange cars and he agreed we could climb in to the car to do this. Ken said we needed to fill up with petrol as we need the car for the week. He thanked us but said he must change the car if we needed it for a week. He seemed a bit worried about this and we also thought it strange. As he drove away Ken's phone rang and the real Jack said he was waiting for us in the car park. The driver agreed his name was not Jack and seemed quite relieved when we said it was all a mistake and we jumped out of the car. We will never know who he thought we were!

Rumphi is situated high in the mountains which dominate the area. We stayed in a lodge in an orphanage where the profits from the guests go towards the costs of the orphange. The camp is modern and very attractive, and built in the African style. The Dutchman who started it all about ten years ago has channelled water from a mountain stream which he supplies to local people free, and his uncle has set up a bakery in the orphanage to teach young people baking skills and supply the local shops with good bread. The facilities were excellent and very comfortable with separate s/c thatched huts. The views from the camp were splendid as we were surrounded by the lush green peaks of the region's national park.

We undertook more interviews with women from loan groups in the area. About 35kms from Rumphi we visted a group of women who insisted in turning out in full force and met us with singing and dancing, arriving in a line as we stood by our car. It was very moving and Jane joined in the dancing, much to their delight, and to Ken's horror in case he had to join in as well. These events are wonderful and one of the highlights of our trip.

Our interpreters were very good. The one in Kasungu was called Precious and the one in Rumphi was named Trouble. Whilst it was a little awkward to call these men by their names, neither had the personalities their names imply.

The bird calls in Rumphi have been strange. One sounds like a persistent telephone, another like a loud dripping tap, and a third has a sound of a repeating low toned whistle. Not the best background noises at 5.00am, but then, we do go to bed at 9.00pm.

Why are African skies so extraordinary? They seem broader, with stronger colours, and the clouds appear more dramatic, and interact with the landscape to give an overall effect that often leaves you amazed. Could it be we are beginning to see Africa through rose coloured spectacles?

After four days in Rumphi we took a long dirt road to Livingstonia, 900 metres up in the mountains above Lake Malawi. It is a mission started in the late ninteeneth century to carry on Livingstone's work. The road became more treacherous as we progressed and our 4X4 was not a 4X4, although fortunately a high sided vehicle. After about an hour We became stuck in severe mud ruts and only managed to free ourselves because it was down hill and we slid along about 50 metres, saying thank goodness we didn't have to come back that way. About ten minutes later we were stopped as a large truck had become stuck blocking the road, so we had to turn back and face this seemingly impassable stretch of mud. After surveying the mud ruts for a while we decided on the most likely route and just went for it. You can imagine our elation when we made it through. The idea of becoming stranded many miles for anywhere was pretty scary. We then took a 100 km detour and went up by the rockiest road ever and stopped just short of Livingstonia at a campsite right on the edge of a precipice with a 700 metre dropped to the valley below stretching out to Lake Malawi. We stayed in a hut right on the cliff edge. Absolutely breathtaking.

We moved up to the Mission in Livingstonia the following morning to stay at the original house for the missionaries. Very basic! However, it was full of atmosphere and interesting historical material. We attended the church the next day to hear the famed gospel singing, which, with three choirs, was all it was cracked up to be. Having to stand up in front of the three hundred congregation to introduce ourselves as visitors was not expected though.